Do you remember the times when you were new to a scene and just unprejudicedly inhaled everything you could get? I remember. My BMW had just arrived in my garage and I was still living on an island in the North Sea, scrolling through every cool motorcycle this motorcycle world had to offer. I had owned bikes before but there was just no world behind it for me except for bringing me from A to B. Key moment was the video “Riding September” of Blitz Motorcycles. I decided: That’s the new hot sh*t.
The announcement of the “Wheels & Waves” in Biarritz also reached us and we participated … or nearly participated. It was added to our calendar a month too late. Mistake, karma, sh*t. It would have been a short car roadtrip to check it out, but now it was clear. We’ll be there next year – on two wheels.
The team was formed of the already known white BMW, a black BMW and a VW Bug in Fontana Grey. The black BMW was purchased just a week before the trip in questional condition, after an extensive test drive up to second gear. So just on time for depature, license plate and sleeping bag both found their way onto the bike at the same time. The Bug was fitted with a driver and a navigator and although I do not remember why they joined on the trip, it was very handy for us on bikes.
Now it’s time for the actual trip. First leg was from Stuttgart to Geneva, where relatives agreed to provide food and shelter for us. Lesson learned on this first leg: do not take the Swiss countryside roads unless you love an endless line of speed limits, roundabouts, and traffic lights. From Geneva we are heading through the rainy Alps to Grenoble and got stopped for the first time. We have a GoPro and are just sitting on the side of the road in the sun, draining our boots. That is enough for Policeman Jaques to enter the scene and ask about illegal racing or any other illegal activities. We feel like proper wild bikers now. Merci, Jaques.
At the end of the day we finally get our training in setting up the tent, prepare dinner, and find a comfortable sleeping position. In the morning, we do it all again in reverse and the group is split in happy (shorts, radio, heater, drinking beer) and mediumhappy (wet boots, wet pants, tired, noisy helmets). At least mediumhappy doesn’t need to carry any luggage and have an external navigation system, running on 12 beers/day and shouting out of a car window.
We slowly make our way past the Vercors and Cevenne regions in roughly the direction of Barcelona. And then it happens in the midday’s heat in Saint-Bauzille-de-Putois – the white BMW dies. A push on the starter button shows the maximum speed the starter can reach but not more. The team assembles and figures out: plenty of fuel, no spark. And the only non-OEM component on the bike comes compliments of a damp garage somewhere in England: the electronic ignition. F*ck.
It’s hot and so is the phone: Roadside assistance, manufacturer of the ignition in the UK, Wheels & Waves Facebook group. We’re just trying to figure out any way to get spare or new parts, or at least a shuttle for the bike back home. Nothing works out but after a pizza and some ice cream this plastic box full of black magic decides to produce some sparks. Why? Don’t care! Get dressed and hit the road. On the next roundabout, we meet again without spark. It seems that the ignition needs some more fresh air instead of radiated heat off the engine. We put the box out on the side cover with some tape and continue our ride in the early evening to the seaside. Our plan for the next days includes early starts, perhaps long lunch rests and evening rides to avoid the heat. This could become a long ride to Biarritz.
But we’re smart and head for the alpine temperatures and cheap fuel of Andorra. The weather gods have their say as well and provide us with fog and rain all across the Pyrenees – the ignition works just fine. In a little village some more magic happens. The black BMW and rider become members of the 1000 Mile Club – after just 5 days.
Our next leg brings us to the lighthouse in Biarritz, sun, and a hotel with a warm shower and a bed. The event starts off with an evening in an art gallery, sushi and free beers in a posh neighbourhood that is just covered in bikes. Everyone is relaxed – even the neighbours that cannot reach their houses by car anymore. From now on we’re just fascinated by the Basques and the city. The event itself is very relaxed and the organisation crew is working hard – do you remember a bike event where you got a lunchbag for your rideout? We’re making new friends from Portugal to northern Germany, have beers and are surprised about the rough idling of most of the bikes after 10pm and especially the absence of any idiots or even police. Biarritz & Wheels & Waves – we’re in love. The rideout leads through the Pyrenees on smaller roads to Getaria and back to Biarritz on the coastline. A big fat smile is frozen into everyone’s face. The surf contest and a beautiful breakfast in the Beach House follow on Sunday. We just don’t want to leave and hang around there into the afternoon.
We needed to get going. After a last evening on the seaside in St. Girons, we headed off to Auvergne. And we were just in front of a massive weather system. Our routine during the days included switching on the expensive internet, checking the forecast, and realising that there’s no escape. Just before dusk we are stranded on a small Camping Municipal in an even smaller town. Checking weather was followed by a discussion none of us four will ever forget. It included riding motorcycles, the pleasure of darkness, sleeping bags and just pure manhood. The reactions on that are answered with a “You became old. Old and comfy.” This chat ends with “we cannot pretend to be dumber than we actually are” and the tent gets set up. It starts raining just as we’re finished and the mayor comes to inform us that he unlocked the nearby local gym in case we need to escape the massive thunderstorm that is approaching. We did not sleep much that night. Trying to estimate the distance to the thunderstorm by counting seconds between lightning and thunder does not work, because you just don’t know which lightning belongs to which thunder. We continue riding late the next morning – in sunshine – heading towards Vichy and the Vosges mountains. We stop for just a second in one of the many Brocante shops and give each other beautiful presents for the trip home.
Wheels & Waves, Biarritz, the Basque country and the small roads in France in general just blew our minds. We’ll come back for sure.
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